Showing posts with label pumpkin. Show all posts
Showing posts with label pumpkin. Show all posts

Monday, October 24, 2011

Curry fest

It was a good night. Naomi was back in the Netherlands for a few days (she lives in Britain now), and the rest of the events unfolded naturally. We rounded up the gang of usual suspects, set a date, planned a menu, and started cooking. It felt comfortable in the way that a gathering of old friends feels comfortable - people you’ve known for years, people who’ve known you for years. You know what their story is, at least some parts of it, you remember who they were all those years ago. You can only wonder who they think you were all those years ago. And hope you (meaning we) will get together every so often for many years to come, and have a good night like this night was.
The menu
Pappadums
Mango chutney
Chick pea and pumpkin curry
Curry beef from Trinidad
Courgette and green pepper sabzi
Cardamom and lime rice
Chapatis
Carrot and sultana raita
Cucumber raita
Chocolate cake with tipsy cream and green chai
Curry beef – Trinidad
Adapted from Madhur Jaffrey’s Curry Bible.
this dish, the aptly if a tad syntactically unexpected yet unimaginatively named ‘Curry Beef’, was a collaborative effort: I made the marinade, naomi cooked the dish. it sounds like a lot of work, because there are a lot of ingredients and the marinating and cooking take a long time. all the ingredients for the marinade you chop up in one go in the food processor, and during the time the beef is marinating, and later, simmering away, you’re not really doing much of anything.
in other words, try this.
for the marinade
6tbsp chopped onion
2 spring onions
2 large cloves of garlic
2tbsp parsley
2–3tbsp fresh coriander (cilantro)
1tbsp fresh thyme / ½ tsp dried thyme
some chillies (see recipe)
½ tsp ground ginger
for the curry
450g stewing beef
2–3 cloves of garlic
1tsp hot curry powder
500–900ml beef stock (see recipe)
1tsp ground cumin
2tsp amchar masala (ingredients below)
amchar masala (a lot of it)
4tbsp coriander seeds

1tbsp cumin seeds

4tsp black peppercorns

2tsp fennel seeds

2tsp brown mustard seeds (we used black)

2tsp fenugreek
preparing the marinade:
put the following in a food processor: 6 tablespoons chopped onion (I used two medium-ish onions), 2 large garlic cloves, 2 spring onions, already chopped in smaller pieces (just use the white and light green parts), 2 tablespoons finely chopped parsley, 2–3 tablespoons finely chopped coriander (cilantro), 1 tablespoon fresh thyme, or ½ teaspoon dried...
I pause here, because we are at the chilli.
madhur stipulates ¼ congo pepper (handle with care) or 3 bird’s eye chillies.
so, 3 bird’s eye chillies to equal one fourth of a congo pepper? quite.
I used one pretty mild chilli instead.
where was I? so, as much chilli as you think you and/or your intended audience can stand, basically, and then ½ teaspoon ground ginger, ½ teaspoon salt, and some fresly ground black pepper.
add two tablespoons of water, and blend into a smooth paste.
cut 450g stewing beef up into 2½ cm pieces (madhur doesn’t say whether the pieces need to be 2½ cm square, or just strips - I cut the meat into squares), and place in a bowl. mix in the marinade, cover the bowl, and leave it in the fridge for 30 minutes to 3 hours (we left it for, gasp, 5 hours. the meat did not complain, nor did we).
Then, the cooking. Over to Naomi:
First, make the amchar masala: dry-roast all the spices in a heavy-bottomed pan for a couple of minutes, cool, and grind in a spice grinder (clean coffee grinders work too). The amounts above make a lot of spice blend (keeps in an airtight container) and require a lot of grinding. Idling kitchen companions are a plus here.
Amchar masala ground, pour three tablespoons of vegetable oil in a large, heavy-bottomed pan. Add two or three cloves of garlic, crushed to a paste with some salt. Stir through 1tbsp of hot curry powder, and carefully soften the garlic without browning (or, if you can stand browned garlic, follow MJ’s instructions and let it brown). Up the heat, add the beef with the marinade and stir for a minute, then let it heat through for ten minutes with the pan covered on a low heat (the mixture will be fairly wet because of the marinade). Then season with salt, and add 1tsp of ground cumin, 2tsp amchar masala, and 500–900ml of beef stock (or simply hot water). The amount of liquid to be added depends on how long you intend to let the curry stew for – for 90 minutes, as the recipe states, 500ml is about perfect; longer stewing means more stock (of course some can always be added later). Bring to a boil, then simmer with the lid on for at least 90 minutes, or longer depending on your cut of meat. Make sure the curry doesn’t dry out while stewing. Before serving, reduce the liquid until it’s thick and sticks to the beef.
Pumpkin and chick pea curry from Tender
This is the curry that started the Curry Fest planning this year. Not quite an Indian curry, but not really South-East Asian either, we thought. It was delicious though. We cooked the curry the night before, and added the coconut milk 20 minutes before serving as we heated it back up. Worked nicely.
400g tin of chick peas
2 onions
4 cloves of garlic
a thumb-sized piece of ginger
3 large stalks of lemongrass
2tsp ground coriander
2tsp ground turmeric (curcuma)
6 green cardamoms
2 red chillies
a pumpkin of about 750g–1kg
250ml vegetable stock
400ml tin of coconut milk
a tablespoon of yellow mustard seeds
a handful of fresh coriander leaves
Peel and chop the onions, and soften them on a low heat in a good splash of light vegetable oil (such as rapeseed or groundnut). Peel and roughly chop the garlic and ginger, remove any tough leaves from the lemongrass and cut this a bit more finely to avoid tough threads. Make into a paste in a food processor and add to the softened onions. Add the ground coriander, turmeric, lightly crushed cardamom seeds (minus the pods) and chopped chillies.
Cut the pumpkin into large-ish cubes (peel or leave the skin on, according to preference). Add to the pan, together with the drained chickpeas and vegetable stock. Bring to a boil, then simmer until the pumpkin is soft yet maintains its shape. (If you want to serve the curry the next day, here’s a good place to stop.) Stir in the coconut milk. Heat the mustard seeds in a bit of oil until they pop, then add to the curry. Take the pan off the heat and stir in the coriander leaves.
Courgette and green pepper ‘sabzi’
I have to give you the official name of this dish, because it’s too good: ‘Tori Aur Hari Mirch Ki Sabzi’. Oh yes. It’s dead simple and made for a nice veggie side dish. The recipe was, again, adapted from The Curry Bible.
Peel about 500 gr. courgettes and cut them into thick fingers, 4 cm long and 1 cm thick. Then take a green bell pepper, quarter it lengthways, remove the seeds and cut it crossways into 1 cm wide slices. Heat 3 tablespoons of oil (olive or corn) in a wok or a large frying pan, over a medium-high heat. Put in ½ a teaspoon of cumin seeds and ¼ a teaspoon brown mustard seeds. As soon as the mustard seeds start to pop (which could be a matter of seconds), add the courgette and the pepper. Stir and let them fry for 5 minutes. Then add 2 tablespoons of yoghurt, and cook until it has been absorbed, stirring all the while. Reduce the heat to low and add a tablespoon of chopped coriander and ½ a teaspoon of salt. Stir for a minute, then add a generous pinch of cayenne pepper and a squeeze of lemon juice. Toss, and taste if the balance of flavours is to your liking.
The cayenne pepper and the lemon juice at the end is a shortcut – Madhur Jaffrey writes you can add them if you don’t have any chaat masala on hand. In the spirit of not getting too stressed out, we took this short cut. But if you have some time, do make chaat masala. You can use it on other veggies as well. To make it, mix together 4 teaspoons of lightly toasted, ground cumin seeds, 1½ tablespoons amchoor, 3 teaspoons cayenne pepper, 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, ¾ teaspoon black salt (I have never seen that in my life! has anyone here? what does it taste like?) and 1 teaspoon salt. Make sure to break up any lumps in the mixture. Put it in a jar with a tight lid, and store it away from sunlight and heat. If you want to use the chaat masala instead of the cayenne pepper and lemon juice, put ½ a teaspoon on the vegetable mix at the end.
Raitas, rice, pappadums
we made two different raitas, one with cucumber and one with carrots and raisins. two raitas might seem a bit much, but I knew there were going to be some people whose eyes would light up at the sight of raisins in the raita, and also some people who would be, shall we say, less pleased. and if you’re gonna make it a party, make it a party, you know? two raitas it was, then.
I usually don’t use a recipe for raita, but this time I did. sort of. that is, I read madhur jaffrey’s recipes for them, and followed her instructions for the amount of spices and salt, but I didn’t go so far as to measure the yoghurt or anything. still, it felt good to just be able to follow instructions without having to think about what I was doing too much.
Cucumber raita
first, roast some cumin seeds and put them into a spice grinder or a mortar & pestle. peel one half of a cucumber, and grate it into a bowl. add a teaspoon of ground cumin seeds, and 1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper. add a dollop of yoghurt, stir everything together, and check for seasoning. add some salt and pepper if needed.
Carrot and raisin raita
peel two medium-sizes carrots, and grate them into another bowl. add a handful of raisins, a teaspoon of ground cumin, 1/4 teaspoon of cayenne pepper, a good dollop of yoghurt, mix, and check for seasoning. you can always add some more yoghurt if you want to change the consistency. the raita I usually make is less ‘liquid’ than the ones you get in indian restaurants. questions of authenticity aside, and questions about the importance of authenticity aside, I like it better my way. but you may not.
Rice with cardamom and lime
depending on the rice you use, you may need to wash the rice before cooking. the best way to cook rice, for me, is to measure it in a glass or a mug, and then to add twice the amount of cold water. so, one cup of rice, two cups of water. cook rice this way often, and you’ll learn which cup in your cupboard will give you the desired amount of rice. as a point of reference, a good portion is usually 75 gr. per person. put the rice and the cold water in a pan, add 5 pods cardamom, and bring to the boil. once the rice starts boiling, reduce the heat to the lowest flame, and leave the rice to cook slowly until all the water’s absorbed. it completely depends on the rice you use how long this will take. when all the water’s absorbed, turn off the heat and let the rice sit and steam for a little while longer.
serve with a few wedges of lime alongside, to be squeezed over the rice à volonté.
Pappadums
the most convenient way of cooking pappadums is in the microwave. place the raw pappadum on a plate - as flat as possible - and put in the microwave for a minute. alternatively, heat up a dry frying pan, and let the pappadums cook and crisp up in there, making sure they don’t catch.
we served them as an appetizer of sorts, with very (very) good mango chutney alongside.
Chocolate cake with tipsy cream and green chai
We could have made kulfi or red bean ice cream or tapioca pudding… but somehow we both weren’t really up for anything quite Asian for dessert. Besides, chocolate had been looked forward to. So for dessert we had, once again, Kate’s Winning-Hearts-and-Minds cake. We served tipsy cream to go with it, inspired by Michel Roux Jr (hands up who misses Michel and Monica Galetti?). Ours was slightly sweetened whipped cream with a couple tablespoons of whisky. To remain somewhat curry-appropriate, our drink of choice was green chai (by Clipper – delicious).
Thanks for the good times, R, N, A, S and G!
- An & Na

Wednesday, August 10, 2011

on originality (or: couscous with pumpkin, carrot and mango)

in other words: I had a salad in the café of the Tate Modern, and liked it so much that I wanted to eat it again. so when I got home, I made it.
I've never understood the big to-do about the idea that nothing is original and that everything has been done before. it seems there is this misplaced air of cool surrounding it, the cool of being (post)modern enough to face the harsh truth in the eye. I just think it's a little bit silly (and to be completely honest, a way out of actually looking things in the eye).
I made the salad, and celebrated it. not my so-called thievery, but the salad itself. since then, it has become a regular.
every time I make this, I am reminded of that afternoon in the Tate gallery. and of making it myself for the first time, how easy it felt, like it was a dish that I had been making all my life. it's where you take things from. and where you take them to.
couscous with roast pumpkin, carrots and mango
thanks, Tate!
peel and cut one pumpkin and a few carrots into little chunks (about 2 square centimeter - but don't get your ruler out or anything). use about 4 or 5 carrots... it really depends on how hungry you are, and what size the carrots are. I think you can go on your instincts here. put them in a baking tray, sprinkle over some olive oil, salt and pepper, and put them in an oven of 200 degrees celsius for about an hour, until they are roasted golden. check every now and again how it's going - how fast the pumpkin and carrots will roast can vary quite dramatically, depending on their texture. it also, of course, depends on your taste when done is Done. when you think they'll need about 15 minutes more, start preparing the rest of the ingredients. you can also just turn the oven off when you find the vegetables to be nicely roasted and haven't started the other ingredients yet.
prepare the couscous - put 75 gr. per person in a bowl, and cover with 150 ml. boiling water per 75 gr. couscous. then cover the bowl, and let it steam for about 10 minutes. I can highly recommend using organic whole wheat couscous, by the way. it sounds stodgy, but it adds a wonderful flavor.
meanwhile, peel a mango and cut it up in chunks, about the same size as your carrots and pumpkin. do this over the serving bowl, so as not to lose any of the lovely juices.
fluff up the couscous with a fork. add it to the mango, and also add the roasted vegetables, 75 gr. roasted cashews, and a handful of roughly chopped up coriander. check for seasoning, but in my experience, the salt from the cashews (I tend to use salted ones) is enough.
sprinkle over some olive oil to finish. if you have a lemon lounging about, squeeze in some lemon juice.
(as you see in the picture above - we didn't have any coriander in the house when I made this last week. I served some basil alongside, and the combination was actually quite good!)
we ate it with some organic chipolatas, and it's also lovely with meatballs. for a vegetarian meal, you could maybe serve some goat's cheese alongside. maybe even one of those baked goat's cheese thingies? some quite savory flavors go well with this couscousdish. oh - and it might also be good with a different nut, like pistachios.

- anne

jim jarmusch quote from nogoodforme.com (which might be my favorite blog in the whole entire world). by the way, don't mean to be a jim jarmusch hater! I do like his movies!