And since I must be sensible, at least a bit, a second lemon recipe that
will survive the inevitable cold snap. This one’s perfect for breakfast,
regardless of the weather. Plenty zingy, make no mistake, but at the same time
creamy and soft. It reminds me a bit of the recipe that started my love for lemons and cream: a children’s
cookbook’s cream-and-lemon dessert that reportedly tasted “like an angel
pissing on your tongue”. Very exciting pudding, that! This lemon curd is a bit
more moderate, its kick slightly more gentle, but just as much of a treat,
especially on a sleepy morning. So there. Two lemon recipes to zing away the
last of summer and welcome autumn with a tang.
Whole lemon lemonade
Makes about 1 litre of
squash, to be mixed about 1:5. Perfect with nothing but soda and ice. Or with a
good shot of gin and lots of mint.
6 organic,
unwaxed lemons
120–180g sugar
(unrefined, but light in colour and not too coarse)
400ml water
Wash the lemons well. Cut into eights, removing the pips. Tip into a blender with the water
and sugar (honey works too), and run for a few minutes,
until it all has turned into a thick liquid. If the mixture has bits, strain through a cloth
or sieve, or just leave as is, in case you fancy a chewy lemonade with a bitter
kick. Sample, and add extra sugar to taste. Keeps in the fridge for quite a
while.
And if the summer bug has really got you, challenge October and British
tradition alike and serve with Pimm’s, strawberries, oranges, cucumber and
mint.
Lemon curd
Does lemon curd sound
like more hassle than you would ever put yourself through in the kitchen?
Believe me, this is easy. And so, so good. Thickly spread on sourdough toast,
spooned through yoghurt, or straight from the jar. It would almost beat the perfect breakfast.
Almost.
4 organic,
unwaxed lemons
150–200g sugar
100g unsalted
butter
3 large eggs + 1
extra yolk
First zest, then juice the lemons (use a very fine zester, and make sure
you don’t take any of the white pith). Simmer some water in a pan the right
size to hold a heatproof bowl (the water should not touch the bowl). Combine
the lemon juice, lemon zest, sugar and butter in the bowl, and whisk
intermittently until the butter has melted. Whisk the eggs together, and add
them to the lemon mixture. Whisk until combined, then simmer for another 10
minutes, or slightly longer, again whisking occasionally. It is possible to do
the whole process over direct heat, as long as it’s very low and you keep
stirring, but I prefer whisking rather than stirring the mixture, in which case
a bowl is a much better vehicle than a pan.
Stir occasionally as the mixture cools, then spoon into sterilised jars,
seal, and refrigerate. Keeps for a couple of weeks.
- Naomi